
Do you struggle with frizzy curls and shrinkage? Before you waste your time and products, let me share with you my humidity-proof curl routine that has worked for me. But before that, let’s know what Humidity and Dew Point really means.
Having lived most of my life in Uganda specifically Kampala, I am conscious of the weather forecast before doing a wash and go hairstyle.
The environment is generally influenced by the wet-dry tropical climate and the variability in humidity. The average monthly humidity in Uganda is between 60% and 80%. The lowest humidity levels occur in dry seasons with minimum levels occurring in December and January. Throughout the year, the average humidity in Kampala is 74%.
Knowing the humidity level helps me know how I am going to style my wash and go hairstyle with minimal to no frizz.
Humidity refers to the total percentage of moisture present.
- High humidity = (rainy season, usually more dew drops)
- Low humidity = (Dry season)
Dew Point
Humidity alone however, doesn’t determine how your curly hair reacts — the dew point does. Two places can have the same humidity but very different dew points, and your curls will react differently in each.
For example, 90% humidity at 35°F (2°C). 90% humidity sounds super humid but because it’s cold, the air can’t hold much water vapor so, even at 90% relative humidity, the dew point is very low, and there’s not enough moisture in the air to puff up curls, the result, little to no frizz.
60% humidity at 70°F (21°C). 60% humidity doesn’t sound too humid, right? But at this warmer temperature, air can hold much more water, so there would be a much higher dew point. This moisture will sneak into the hair shaft, causing it to swell, lose definition, and the result? Serious frizz.
Dew point is the temperature at which air becomes saturated with water vapor (moisture) and dew begins to form (condensation occurs). It is the specific temperature at which moisture condenses into liquid droplets. Dew point gives you the real picture of how humid your environment feels to your hair and skin.
Kampala’s Dew Point
Dew point in Kampala is lower during the drier seasons (December-February) and higher during the wetter seasons. The average dew point in Kampala typically ranges from 60°F to 66°F (16°C to 19°C) throughout the year. This means that the air is generally moist, a consistently humid environment, which can significantly influence curl behavior.
For curly hair, this often leads to increased frizz where hair absorbs excess moisture from the air, causing the hair shaft to swell resulting in frizz (loss of definition).
My Humidity-Proof Curl Routine
High dew point (Moist, foggy sticky air, usually wet season, rainy)
Clarifying to remove excess buildup
Clarifying shampoos are deep cleansers to remove buildup, oil, and dirt and allow styling products (like gel) to grip better and form a stronger cast for hold.
Moisturizing conditioner with slip and protein balance
Since clarifying shampoos are deep cleansers, they also strip away some of your hair’s natural moisture and oils leaving hair squeaky clean. We need need a balance.
I condition to add slip and protein balance to strengthen, plump and smooth the hair shaft. Conditioner replenishes moisture, smooths the cuticle, gives hair elasticity and manageability, and brings back softness and slip so curls don’t feel brittle or tangled. They are also usually pH-balanced to help flatten and seal the cuticle again. This keeps frizz down and shine up.
I rinse thoroughly to avoid over-conditioning, which could lead to puffiness in high humidity.
I skip leave-in or use less to reduce hydration
Since the air already has a substantial amount of moisture, I go light or skip leave-in altogether to avoid overly hydrated strands. that could lead to puffiness and shrinkage.
Styling from air-dried hair
When my Afro 4c hair is air-dried before curling, It’s less saturated with water, meaning the gel can lock in the current curl pattern faster, which reduces shrinkage since the hair isn’t shrinking up from water overload.
Light spritz of water before styling
A light mist softens the surface just enough to activate curl definition and help the gel spread smoothly without re-saturating the hair and causing it to shrink again.
Using a hard hold gel with frizz-controlling ingredients
Hard hold gel forms a cast around the curls, locking in the shape and creating a barrier against moisture from the air. Frizz-controlling ingredients (like proteins or film-formers) further seal the cuticle and block humidity.
Low dew point (dry, crisp air usually low humidly levels, dry season)
When the dew point is low, air lacks moisture so I give my curls what the environment can’t. I switch up my routine just a little bit to keep frizz away and curl definition on point.
I would use a hydrating shampoo, but since the air here is a consistently humid (not so humid as in rainy seasons), even in the dry seasons, I still go for my clarifying shampoo, follow with moisturizing conditioner, apply leave-in generously to add slip, hydration and to lock in moisture. Finish with a hard hold gel that controls frizz and seals everything in. The result? Soft, defined curls that stay moisturized and frizz-free.
Take Home
Know the dew point of your area and that will guide you on what ingredients to look for in a product to manage frizz. For High dew points, look out for products that emphasize proteins. For low dew points, look out for products that emphasize hydration. As for type 4 hair, because our kinks are kinks and not naturally curly you may still have to stick to a balance between protein and hydration in low dew points to achieve great curls. Proteins give my 4c curls a great boost and vibrant appearance every time.
Let me know what you think or what works best for you.
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